Sunday, March 30, 2008

The Gelateria

Gelateria

On Friday as I rushed across town eager to discuss the ways of my nephews’ elementary school lives, the sign for the Gelateria beckoned me in. I left with three pizzas (funghi and prosciutto, pepperoni, and margherita ) and three boxes of gelato (mango, chocolate and mint chocolate chip.) Years ago, my husband and I were there when the Gelateria was first open. We once had dinner of ice cream at the Baskin Robbins (or was it Hersheys by that time?) and gelato for desert. When we moved out east, I was happy to find a Gelateria had popped up near home (a rare Cleveland joint in the chainland of Legacy Village.) When I was pregnant, and ate grapefruit for the morning sickness (often like this), I often stopped by for a grapefruit gelato.

But, I had not been there since it started serving pizza. The Valerio’s pizza is cooked in a stone oven. The pizza smelled lovely as I was driving home. I had thought that I would walk in the door, reheat them in the oven, toss a salad, open a bottle of wine, take out plates, set a table and eat a nice dinner with the family. Instead, I walked in to find all my house guests were ravenous. I placed the pizzas on the table and everyone broke into the pizza. My family was really impressed by the pizza—as was I. I particularly enjoyed the mushroom and prosciutto pizza. It is my suggestion that if you are serving boys you order more pizza than you think you need.

The stores namesake was brought out next. I am not a mint person so I had a taste of the chocolate and mango. Both were good, but I have always been a particular fan of the fruit-flavored gelatos; and the mango was amazing. My only suggestion is that you remember cash when you stop by.


Gelateria

Caffé Roma

Caffe Roma 1
Caffe Roma 2

I love my family. The other day, I told my nephew how it is hard to be an adult. He seemed slightly deflated and I felt bad for having said such a heavy thing to a very young man. But, I had near 1/3 of my family visiting this week, and I was feeling the impending and eventual loneliness of their absence. Luckily, I snapped out of it and began to eat. We started our festivities at Caffe Roma. It is such a great place, but we rarely go for whatever reason. I should say upfront this is a cash-only establishment and it doesn’t have a liquor license. But, those are minor—the food is awesome.



The food is Italian-American with all the regular items that one might expect (red sauce, etc.), but the owner is an immigrant from Naples. The walls are adorned with Sofia Loren and soccer insignias. Rai, Italian cable, is often on the TV. This is basically what Bucca di Beppo attempts to simulate—but so much tastier. The environment was very family-oriented; and our waitress Samantha was charming.



I had only wished that I had run three miles (or perhaps walked to the West Side) before dinner, because I was not hungry enough for the Italian-American feast that presented itself on the table. We had—8 slice pizza (like a bruschetta), minestrone soup, salad, eggplant parmigiana and cavatelli, pasta puttensca, linguine with sausage, and a crispy chicken sandwich. The order of a crispy chicken sandwich was met with a bit of ridicule, there was no doubt. We drove across town in the rain and then even got lost so that someone could eat a crispy chicken sandwich…but then it appeared on the table, and we were all quiet. The patty was blanketed it melted mozzarella and tucked within at ciabatta roll. So, nothing that we ordered disappointed.

We finished with dessert—tiramisu, chocolate/coffee cake (bigger than my head), ricotta cake (so light), pistachio gelato. The experience was so perfect that there is almost nothing else to say. It is my suggestion that if you need a small quiet place to sit and eat lovely food in a casual setting with some of your dearest friends in the world, or in this case, with family that makes you feel an incredible sense of belonging, Caffe Roma should be near the top of your list.

Caffé Roma: 13000 Lorain Ave., Cleveland, OH, ph: 216-889-9999

Caffe Roma 10

Saturday, March 29, 2008

Metalworks


I am just getting back into photography. I married into a family that takes very few photographs, so I returned to taking photographs a few years ago mostly to capture Christmas memories. But, of course, the problem with digital is the lack of the tangible--those photos now live on discs and ironically mostly as vague memories. But, this food thing has meant that I have a concrete place (intangible as it is) to post my pictures. And, so, I have started to look at them and attempt to improve them. As such, I decided I would join in on jugalbandi's Click photography event. The theme this month is metal.

I had read the contest form at the end of February, and I was fairly confident that it was not for me. I love porcelain, ceramic, stoneware, wood, bamboo... as vessels for food. Their surfaces are comfortingly soft and smooth to the touch; each of those materials strike me as food service vessels. But, what about metal? I think of silverware and cooking-ware. I had quickly thought about maybe doing something Macbethian with food bubbling in metal pots, but I am not quite in a theatrical aesthetic right now.

But, then on Easter, we worked on making vegan cookies, and I opened a drawer that was overrun with multicolored dragees. I had purchased them to decorate something at sometime--but as they now strike me as a choking hazard, I rarely use them. But, that drawer, made me think that there was a good metal picture in there. So, rather than food displayed on metal, I decided to think of metal food. I looked through the cabinets to help me compose the scene. In the end, I decided to create a modern, adult Easter basket--in a sleek, metal bowl (that we usually use for nuts.) I would have loved to experiment with lighting scenarios, but it was a crazy work week--so I was rarely home when natural light was streaming into the kitchen. (This is the largest outstanding question I have about blogging--how do so many bloggers shoot their lovely dinners in perfect natural light? Aren't they at work at that time?)

and the outtakes...



Animal Crackers 2

Animal Crackers 5

Animal Crackers 8

Animal Crackers 9

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Pathrado


Soakng the Swiss Chard, originally uploaded by maybellesmom.



I must say reading blogs has become much more interesting now that I write one. It is nice to have a live community to react to; it is nice to be inspired and to inspire. White on Rice Couple has a beautiful blog, and recently they were creating rolled food. It inspired me to try a recipe I had never made--pathra/ pathrado. It is a rolled, steamed leaf dish. The internet yielded a few recipes, but I checked in with a friend for to get the "right" measurements. The recipe S-- gave me is listed below.


Cleaning the Swiss Chard, originally uploaded by maybellesmom.




Swiss Chard Stems, originally uploaded by maybellesmom.




Making Pathrado, originally uploaded by maybellesmom.




Making Pathrado 2, originally uploaded by maybellesmom.




Pathrado is a Mess, originally uploaded by maybellesmom.




Pathrado in the Steamer, originally uploaded by maybellesmom.




Steaming the Pathrado, originally uploaded by maybellesmom.




Pathrado in a Skillet, originally uploaded by maybellesmom.




Pathrado, originally uploaded by maybellesmom.



Recipe:
Pathrado

Soak in water overnight

1/2 cup rice
1/2 cup dal

Drain the water and then use a blender to create a very thick paste of the rice, dal, with
the flesh of one coconut
5-10 chillis (dry roasted)
1 tsp asofoetida
1 tsp tamarind
2 tsp salt
(Add water slowly to keep it moist.)

Wash the leaves and remove the stalks of

25 Large flat leaves (Taro/Colacasia leaves, Swiss Chard, Collard Leaves

Spread the paste onto one leaf so that it is covered with about 1/4 of an inch of masala, cover with another leaf and repeat. Do this until you have 5 leaves on top of each other. and then roll up like a jelly roll. Tie with string.

Steam for about 20 minutes.

Slice and serve warm. Or pan fry them in olive oil and serve.

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Kids' cooking classes at Bar Cento


Belle has family in town this week, and so she made a very rare evening appearance. I wanted to take the family out to the see some of Cleveland, so we decided to meet friends at Bar Cento for their Cheffin’ with Kids. Chef Sawyer has two young kids and so I would guess turning a restaurant over to an army of children was likely a natural extension of his life. The gist of the event is this—every Tuesday from 4:30-8:00, kids can make their own pizzas. (Tip: make a reservation) There is a wooden riser of sorts that aligns with the bar, so that all the younger chefs can step up arrange their toppings on their pizza.

This Cheffin with Kids is a great example of the expression “simply brilliant”. Even the pickiest kid will eat pizza. They do pizza well anyway at Bar Cento, so making many, many pans of pizza for kids to top off is very doable. And, simple does not mean easy or uncomplicated. This event was more than business for the Chef. There was what the chef called “kid’s tomato sauce” and then his regular sauce. He then had 4 cheeses or so. While I can’t express how much I love cheese, Belle’s allergy meant that we didn’t even look at those lovely milk products. Then there were tomatoes, potatoes (“one of chef’s favorites” Sawyer told us), sausage, pepperoni, air-dried beef, olives, olive tapenade, onions. This assortment of pizza toppings really made me feel that for Sawyer this event is as much about being a parent as a chef. The display had items that made the picky eater comfortable like mozzarella and then stretch items like blue cheese. (Also pizza is a great choice for the allergic child--excluding wheat allergies. There is no egg or milk, and if you are choosing toppings, you can really know what your kid is eating.) My husband and I really hope to have a child who loves food as much as we do, and when it comes to developing a palette, practice makes perfect.

We weren’t the only parents who want this for our child, because the event was packed—babies to pre-teens. Belle enjoyed her pizza but mostly enjoyed wandering around the restaurant without abandon. One very tall patron who did not appear to be attending with a child, when accosted by little Belle, looked down at the rampaging mini-gourmand, and warned her, jokingly, that should mind her p’s and q’s or she might become a pizza topping. Of course, the good humor of the other guests was in part due to the strength of the waitstaff. As always, the service at Bar Cento is amazing.
We make pizza at home and she has made her own pizzas-asparagus and soy cheese. But, this was different because it was about being around many families doing the same thing--enjoying good food with their kids. The evening had the feel of saturnalia where the adult had decided to leave the kids to run the place—and as a parent I say this in an absolutely positive way, because how better to show your kids to eat good food than to give them the power to make it themselves.




Monday, March 24, 2008

Easter Ravioli







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Baby Love Pear Pasta


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Sunday, March 23, 2008

Easter Eggs the Bad Chemical Way




Easter Eggs using Natural Dyes








Vegan Animal Crackers


As an only child, searching for your Easter basket is a quick and boring adventure. But, when you have a new baby, or in this case, a practicing toddler, you forget to think like a participant and become a planner. I had dreams of an Easter egg hunt with her cousins. But, this year, we thought we would start with a tiny, little basket. I had grand plans to make one from woven paper, but instead I got so focused on the contents of the basket. Belle can't eat chocolate because she is too young for cocoa and sensitive to dairy. So, I decided to fulfill some of her desires.
The other day at school, she saw a little girl eating animal crackers. She had never even heard of crackers, let alone cookies. I have been attempting to profit from her myopic view of the world. Bananas are dessert in her mind. Mangoes are a treat. It is not that she hasn't had baked goods, but I used little or no sugar in her desserts. But, for my husband, Easter was filled with sugar-hazed memories. How could I keep her in the dark forever? I wasn't ready to give up and purchase crackers. I would rather wear flats and curlers in Nordstrom than chemical-laden cookies. Won't it be funny in 1 year when I read this while watching my daughter eat Spaghetti O's, Cheeto's, and Animal Crackers?
So, I looked around for a recipe. Animal crackers at home, vegan-style, seemed to me to be an easy adventure. All I could find was regular recipes, so I sat down to veganize. The recipe was easy to convert as it didn't have egg as a binder. The result was animal crackers, but not quite as good as the ones from the little circus box. I mean they weren’t bad, but the lack chemicals or maybe the recipe meant that these just didn’t hit the spot. Luckily, Belle has never even seen a box of animal crackers, let alone ingested whatever chemicals and dairy derived whey lurks within those amorphous creatures.
If I made this recipe again, I would add nutritional yeast to made them savory or else add a tablespoon of cane sugar to add some sweetness. As the recipe stood, they had a sad in-betweenness of flavor. Next to the Linzer cookies, they were sort of that plain girl who was friends with the popular girl, physically present but not remarkable or even memorable.
In the end, the basket of cookies were an enormous hit. Together they served as enough fuel to help Belle wear out 6 adults and still have time to harass the dogs. (As I was reading Is My Blog Burning, I found that this whole thing fit into the theme for Sugar High Fridays. And, what is a week without a blog event, really?)
Recipe:
Vegan Animal Crackers
Pulse in a food processor until you get a fine powder

1/2 cup oatmeal

Add to the food processor and pulse the following until the mixture looks grainy:
3 t agave nectar
1/4 to 1/8 tsp salt
3/4 cup flour
1/4 t baking soda
1/4 cup vegan margarine, softened
4 T soymilk
1 T apple cider vinegar

Using your hand, knead the mixture together into a small ball.

Chill for one hour. Roll out thin. And cut with cookie cutters. This dough works better with mini-cutters rather than large ones.

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Vegan Bunny Cake ( Vegan Pistachio Spice Cake )

I got a Bunny cake for my wedding shower many years ago now. Actually we registered for all sorts of stuff they said we would never use, and most of those things have come in handy now. (Cherry pitter—great clafoutis. French Onion soup container—pot pie vessels.) The bunny cake mold had yet to be used. So today, I tried to make a vegan bunny cake. What the Hell do Vegans Eat Anyway had a nice one that stood up but didn’t have a recipe. So, I decided to make my own. This cake was TASTY, but it didn’t have enough structural integrity to stand up. Herein the issue might be that I hate to read the directions. Apparently the best way to do these molds to make a cake that rises so much it fills both sides rather than cooking both sides separately. So, what we got was a cake that stood for a scant thirty seconds. And, even when supported with a lattice of toothpicks, still fell in the wind. So, our bunny became instead a bunny recumbent upon the grass (in this case crushed pistachios.) But, a tasty bit of sleeping rabbit she was.

There was a daunting challenge at A Slice of Cherry Pie for one's Easter cakes. While my cake did not stand up, it did take wonderful. Many, many family members were convinced it was too good (cakey, moist, tasty) to be vegan. So, I thought, why not join the Easter Cake Bake party.

Recipe:
Vegan Bunny Cake ( Vegan Pistachio Spice Cake )
Preseason your bunny mold in a 375 degree oven for 20 minutes

In a large bowl, mix the following:
2 2/3 cup unbleached flour
2/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup finely ground pistachios
2 tsp baking powder
2 tsp baking soda
2 tsp cinnamon
2 tsp ground cardamom
1/2 tsp fine sea salt

In a second bowl, mix the follow:
1 1/3 cup soy milk
1/3 cup water
2/3 cup canola oil
1 cup pure lys syrup
2 T cider vinegar
2 t vanilla extract
1 T pistachio flavoring

Mix the wet with the dry.

Grease and flour each half the bunny. Fill each with the batter. Bake at 350 degree for 20 minutes (in a convection oven.)

Vegan Saffron Pistachio Buttercream
(adapted from the Cookies and Cream Buttercream from Vegan Cupcakes Take Over the World)
In a stand mixer whip the following
1/2 cup nonhydrogenated shortening
1/2 cup nonhydrogenated margarine
3 1/2 cups powdered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoons pistachio flavoring
1 T saffron dissolved in 2 T hot water
1/4 cup plain soy milk or soy creamer

Use this to glue the bunny together and then pipe it over the bunny. If you wish your bunny to stand up, I suggest a couple dowels.

Vegan Linzer Cookies


We made preserves and pickles on Saturday night, and eventually, I will get it together to post the pictures and recipes. The next morning, Easter, I decided to sort out Belle’s Easter Basket. She doesn’t eat chocolate and everything has to be dairy-free. So, we decided to make vegan cookies. The better of the cookies were the Linzer cookies. I chose these so that I could make use of our lovely preserves. I also went with this option because Easter paraphernalia was on sale all over and I felt the compunction to purchase the Linzer Cookie cutter—tiny cut-outs of bunnies, come on.

We used store bought raspberry jam and homemade kumquat –ginger marmalade to fill them. The cookies were Pistachio-Rose Water Cookies from my beloved Veganomicon. OH, were these cookies heavenly. They were just exceptional.


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Thursday, March 20, 2008

CSAs: My Decision Making Process

I spoke to a friend yesterday about this CSA thing. As my friend CravingCleveland asked in a comment, so will I do this CSA thing and shut up already. (Actually, she is really too nice a person to say it that way, but blogs are supposed to be a heightened sense of reality, right?) So, the other day I started to put down how my feelings stand right now.

Pros:

  • Support Local Farms
  • Support American jobs
  • Support the farmers
  • Decrease the global use of pesticides (Organic CSAs) in a small way
  • Always know that you will have some vegetables to cook—fewer rushed runs to the grocery store
  • Have some sense of what food you will be getting each week—allows you to plan ahead
  • Helps promote a healthy lifestyle—no one can avoid a whole giant bag of vegetables
  • Promotes cooking creativity—no one can endure three weeks of zucchini noodle surprise
  • Creates a bond between you and the person who produced your food
  • Allows you to know exactly what went into your food

Cons:

  • Too much food
  • Too much of the same food
  • Need to go to the pick up location every week (difficult with erratic schedules)
  • If it prevents you from shopping from other local farms, it makes you feel like you are not supporting farms in general
  • Miss out on going to the market—and the social culture of shopping for food at markets (if we don’t go with a market pick up
  • We have so many local farmers and with such wonderful specialties—why be monogamous?

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Notes from My CSA Conversations

A few Saturdays ago, I spent the morning thinking about CSAs. Luckily all of Ohio was under a thick blanket of snow so I it was easy to reach farmers/ growers. This Saturday, with Cleveland under a ridiculously romantic haze of fog, I finally got around to compiling my information. My conversations were so fascinating, and at first, I thought I would just transcribe and post each conversation. But, I am a synthesizer by career, and it felt more useful to me and to my friends who read this, to draw conclusions about my conversations.

One important theme that came up was uncertainty. When I called Ashbrook Farm, the owner, who was, as he said, “in [his] 84th year,” said he on not sure what his farm’s next move is and as such he was creating a waiting list on CSAs. This was in part due to the increase in feed prices, from three hundred some odd dollars a ton to $575 a ton, or as he said, “grain prices have gone out of sight.” In addition, he discussed that he might need additional labor to make it a go. Snake Hill Farm, who currently does NOT do CSAs, also discussed the uncertainty of their work flow. This Farm is basically 2 women farming on a farm that has been in the family for a few generations. They do not do farm shares as of yet. Savery Fitzgerald explained that right now they have a cadre of interns who appear yearly, but they can’t count on them.

The second clear theme was a connection between the city and the farm. In my area, city and farm can be intertwined. So, perhaps it is better to say, there needs to be a pact—not only verbal, but frankly written in newspapers, blogs, etc—where the city people mandates local food from local farmers. Some of this is the farmer working with their patrons/audience/customers and supplying what is needed. All of the farms talked about this, but I was particularly struck by my conversation with Covered Bridge Farms, who discussed that they choose many different varieties of common vegetables to counteract the zucchini doldrums that happen in some CSAs, and Maple Valley Sugar Bush, who deliver homes in certain portions of greater Cleveland. These marketing tactics only work when the shopper holds up their portion of the bargain—paying the farmer for their work. This, though, requires an educated populace. And, I don’t know that I am even an educated eater. Ashbrook Farm was selling his lovely organic eggs for a meager $2 a dozen to his neighbors. But, his neighbors realized that he could not make a living off his eggs at that price, so together they raised the price. But, then with the higher prices in grain, eggs will get more expensive. And herein lay proof that I need to continue to educate myself. He asked me, if Ashbrook Farm were to sell me eggs at a higher price, what would I pay. And, frankly, I had no idea. I always paid what it cost at the market, without thinking. Now, I had to think about everything that went into my egg—the lifestyle of its mother, the farmer who feed that chicken, the farm that housed that chicken, the food that that hen ate. How would I have any idea what an egg actually costs? By learning about how a farm works and what an egg actually costs. I realize that seems simple, but it takes me to my third lesson.

CSAs make for strange bedfellows politically and socially. Ashbrook Farm spoke quite a lot about the dignity in farming. How can people go on farming in a responsible way when so many things are against them? As a child, my school was an election voting center. I remember learning that republicans believe in small government and people doing for themselves and democrats believe in government regulating business to help the small person. In the mixed up world, the regulation supports the big farmer, who grows TOO much corn, and basically works against the small farmer. Farm subsidies which are depicted as helping a small farmer are helping multinationals. Alright, this is discussed in many books, like Omnivore’s Dilemma, so I don’t need to reiterate this, but my point here is, I have learned, you can’t assume that your politics have actually allied you with small farmers—it might have helped those who make the processed food which you don’t want to eat.

In the end, local farming is about consensus—local people and local farmers together agreeing to pay a respectable, decent price for good food. My conversations were surprisingly empowering, even though we were discussing exactly the same ideas that felt disabling when I read Omnivore’s Dilemma. This was likely in part because I was trying to make a change, rather than reading about changes that I hadn’t made. My conversation Ashbrook Farm also made me realize small change is best made within a community of other people making changes—I have decided I will start talking food co-op with my neighbors. If but one bit subdevelopment per neighborhood decided to work directly with one farmer in the region, think of what change might occur.

Cleveland Areas CSAs:

Maple Valley Sugarbush and Farm CSA
12363 Chardon-Windsor Road, Chardon
t: 440.286.7275, mobile 440.537.5409 or 440.537.5405
e: maplevalley@windstream.net

Covered Bridge Gardens & Peters Creek
1681 Netcher Road, Jefferson
440.858.2569
mpro@suite224.net

Ashbrook Farm
(proprietor) Elbert Crary
10089 Bartholomew Rd
Chagrin Falls, OH 44023
440-543-8369
FAX: 440-543-8369
(Serves Northeast Ohio)

City Fresh Cleveland
Two locations in downtown Cleveland: Clark Metro Fresh Stop located
at W. 25th & Clark, US Bank parking lot and Detroit Shoreway Fresh
Stop located at W. 48th & Lorain Ave. at Urban Community School.
216.429.8238 or 440.774.2906

Cleveland Area Local Farms that Sell At Local Markets:

Snake Hill Farm, L.P.
17900 S Park Blvd
Shaker Heights, OH 44120
216-295-1105
LouisR9707@aol.com
Snake Hill Farm is a diversified family farm producing vegetables, meat products, eggs and maple syrup. We sell organic vegetables at the North Union Farmers' Markets in Cleveland and Lakewood.

sadly not working


I should be writing two different reports tonight, and will write them, I swear...I do have coworkers who know who I am and might read this...but I wanted to post these picts from the lovely orange rice that Belle had for dessert last night.

I saw this on Cinnamonda and decided to veganize it for Belle. I made "whipped cream" with 1/2 block semi frozen firm silken tofu, 1/2 cup coconut milk (chilled), 1 T soy milk (chilled), 1 t vanilla, 1 t sugar. I also chilled the bowl and the beaters. It wasn't whipped cream (a little more like very thick melted ice cream), but she doesn't know what cream is. But, nevertheless, this citrus rice pudding (basically) was yummy. I did also add finely chopped pistachios for the nutrition. Thanks Cinnamonda, you made for a happy baby.

Monday, March 17, 2008

Bread Mistakes

I am human. You might have guessed this. I realize that I am anonymous here, but from my conversational style, my idiosyncratic punctuation philosophy, my personality…well, I don’t think there is a robot that can do this. yet. Though, maybe all of you out there are robots…alright, that is too Space Odyssey for my taste.

misses, but that is not too often. Usually those misses are still close enough that they aMy point is that I make mistakes. In terms of cooking, I am usually pretty okay with only a fewre edible. But, when it comes to baked goods, well, I suck. I hate to measure; I hate to time; I hate to count. I don’t find kneading particularly relaxing. Egg wash makes me feel a little icky. Basically, this is a count on which I have no redeeming qualities. Well, thinking about it that is not entirely true. I can bake a few specific things—tiny pies, cupcakes, cakes, and cream puffs. But, that is when I focus and subsume any desire to goof off. Rest assured, I do not bake for company, so you should pretty much be able to avoid this in person.

So, know, as if this whining wasn’t enough proof that I was human, I think my recent baking exploits are even better. Sunday, I made a blackberry and apple pie and forgot to put tin foil on the edge. It was tasty, but it looked as if it had been released from some medieval fire. Luckily it tasted good. And, my wedding china really classed it up.

But, the bigger misstep came today. My husband made a brioche dough on Sunday. In his recipe, it called for overnight refrigeration. And, herein was our downfall. I am not a morning baker, I learned. I completely forgot about my lovely dough the next morn. When we came home tonight, we were trying to make something that would allow us to spend the most time with Belle. She was in rare form, sorting and resorting little blocks and pieces of paper. How could we miss this to form tiny little loafs? And, plus she loves bread, and brioche is the anti-vegan bread. (Why did we make it? Butter after dark is even better than meat after dark. But, actually we made it for a work thing.)

So tonight, around nine, we got to making our little loafs, and then once done, we put them in the oven, and well forgot. So, we ended with what could be kindly described brioche croutons. We also tried to made a couple decorative loafs—one came out 70s rustic and the other, well, a horribly disfigured woman with whorish red lipstick—baking doesn’t pay apparently. Alright, so it wasn’t terrible—but just not lovely. See I am not even perfect in my imperfection.

Confetti Masala for Dosas


Baby masala dosa is a favorite. The batter, which I must say I purchase at an Indian grocery store, is salt free, so that makes it not bad for you. Dosa is made from rice and dal, so it must have some protein, no, and then isn’t there something miraculous about beans and rice? Nonetheless, masala dosa has never struck me as extremely healthy, not unhealthy, just not healthy. So, last week, I decided to make confetti masala dosa, with variety of colors of veg in the dosa filling. This was apparently just as yummy as the plain potato.
Isn’t it nice when you don’t have to hide the vegetables?

This dosa is usually filled with a spicy coconut chutney. But, that strikes me as all flavor, no nutrition. So, I decided to add spinach to the chutney. It was really good.

Recipe
Confetti Masala for Dosas
Saute
½ small onion, diced
1 t cumin
1 t turmeric
1 tiny pinch chili powder

When this is browned, add and saute for a few minutes

1 carrot diced (ideally maroon)
2 small red potatoes

After 2-3 minutes, add

1/4 cup water
¼ cup baby lima beads
¼ cup soy beans

Saute until everything is tender.

Spinach Chutney
In a blender, combine
1 cup frozen spinach
2 T coconut powder
2 T thick coconut milk
1/4 cup hot water

Icebox Experiment: Chicken Dhanshak

My husband has often stated American culture is fixated on the status quo and insuring a population focused on mediocrity. As evidence, he cites all the self-help shows. In one weekend, you can look ten years younger, dress thinner, make your home over, and plan your ideal wedding. He particularly hates shows that change the different person, the goth, the indie chick, the librarian, into the average All-American. When the before and after pictures come up, he clicks his tongue and reminds me that our Belle will be allowed to be different.

This is still food blog, I assure you. So, tonight, I decided to perfect (picture perfect) cabbage curry. A few weeks ago, I made a Thaish curry with cabbage, frozen tofu, steamed silken tofu, carrots, galangal, and onions. It was very tasty, but the cabbage turned a grayish-purple. The whole dish had a vague blueness.

Tonight, I was planning to repurpose the fillings from Pot Pie night. I decided to make Dhanshak. I am not quite sure why. I am not Parsi, the Zoroastrians of Gujurat, and I have never actually eaten it. They put chicken and dal; the vegetables are my addition. But, with everything in front of me, it just came to me. This is why the Icebox Experiment is such joy. It is a mental exercise made tangible/ edible.

We had a curry sauce, some spinach sauce from the weekend, poached free-range chicken, boiled potatoes, boiled carrots, and sliced onion. I combine the lot with 1 T coconut milk and water and warmed it through. I cooked some masoor dal in a separate sauce pan seasoned with ginger root. I steamed the shredded cabbage separately.

I combine the cooked dal, curry, and some organic frozen spinach. As I let it simmer, I attempted to make the sounds the baby rabbit and turtle make. (Mostly just facial expressions and jabbing tongues.) Once we were ready to eat, I plated the dish with the cabbage on top—it made for a much prettier cabbage salad. You judge the before and after, and remember that I value difference, but do enjoy a nice picture on my blog.

Sunday, March 16, 2008

Egg Pot Pie


While every one was trying out their sense of self with pot pie night, I also made one old favorite, with a twist. Chicken Biryani is my nemesis. Love it, but can’t cook it. It is a dish in which the household used up old rice and curry—but it was usually emboldened with raisins, nuts, and saffron. But, tonight, I decided to make an egg biryani pot pie. This might seem crazy—but traditionally, biryani would be topped with a salt dough and baked. The dough would not be eaten—but just to keep the contents moist and delicious. So, why not make a crust that is yummy. And, since, I love a blog event; I decided to send this recipe on to the Pullet Surprise at Peanut Butter Etouffee.

Recipe:
Egg Biryani
(This recipe yields but 2 pot pies.)
Make a pate brisee ( lovely egg and butter conconction that it is) and refrigerate.

Begin by sautéing

1 small onion
1 small carrot
2 t cumin
1 t coriander
1 t cinnamon
1 t kolanji seeds
1 t chili powder or red pepper flakes
1 t turmeric
2 t salt

Once the mixture is brown, put in blend into a thick paste with 1 cup chicken broth or water. (I used water.) Reserve this curry sauce.

In a pan or cast iron skillet, sauté
2 cups rice
2 t coriander
2 t mint

Hard boil 4 eggs.

Then assemble your egg pot pie—
Put 2 tablespoons curry sauce at the bottom of the crock, then ½ cup rice, then stand up two peeled hard-boiled eggs in the rice, then another sprinkle of curry sauce, and then put ½ cup rice, to keep the egg standing, finish with a little more curry sauce and 1/8 cup stock, and then top with the crust. (For looks sake, I put in a little curly kale around the eggs to recall an easter basket. But, totally not necessary, and in fact, does not add to the flavor of the dish.)




Pot Pie Choose your Own Mystery Party


I am into choice, but when it comes to entertaining, within strict parameters.

I have been thinking pies for about one week, thanks to pi day. Last weekend we made many pies. And, then when I was reading Modern Beet comment in answer to my comment about last weekend’s pot pie, I decided a pot pie party was in order. She asked me what I put in my swiss chard stem pot pie (that was a great one), and then listed a number of ingredients. Pot Pies should and can be individualized. Or as I like to say, you as an eater should be able to choose your own mystery beneath the crust. Which goes back to my original statement—strict parameters. We set up a list of items to fill in your crock—and even made a handout.

I half hoped to do it all vegan for my friend H— and her boyfriend on the occasion of her 29th birthday (again), but they were not available, so instead we had our hungry friend E— over. He is a meat eater who does serious physical activity as part of his occupation—so we went with a variety of meat fillings (sautéed beef, egg, and poached chicken). We also offered a bean trio and chickpeas. We parcooked all the fillings, so that all the pies need is the cooking of the crust. We used crocks with a lip. For one, however, we used a simple lipless bowl. This did not work—the crust severed at the lip (or lack of lip) of the bowl.

We have done this sort of thing before—crepe parties, pizza parties, etc. They take a lot of preprep and mean that you are inevitably doing some labor while the guests are visiting. It is my suggestion that you have a cheese plate or cool appetizers, but bring them out after the guests have chosen their filling. After which, bring out the appetizers, and then return to the kitchen to add a roux spiked stock, the desired crust, and an egg wash (if not vegan.) Place the crocks on a baking sheet and into the oven.

Our friend E— found this a charming sort of party; and it made me say to everyone, please not only do this party, but change it for your needs. If you do so, please leave me a comment about the party and maybe even a link to your post.

Vegan Rhubarb Cupcakes Revisited


I am not a baker, and until Belle was unable to have dairy, I would never think to have created my own baked good recipe. Luckily, I am far from the first person to make vegan baked goods. But, today, I decided to test my cupcakes—and actually measure how I made them. So, this recipe is tested, still not perfect, but much closer than last time.

Recipes:
Vegan Rhubarb Cupcakes
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray muffin tins with nonstick spray
Simmer until a red syrup forms the following
1 cup water
2 very red rhubarb stalks, finely diced
2 t sugar
2 pods cardamom
1/8 cup pomegranate juice

In 1 cup water combine the cooked rhubarb from the sauce with 1 T apple sauce. (Reserve the syrup for the frosting.)

Mix dry ingredients:
3/4 cup flour
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder

In a separate bowl, mix wet ingredients
1 TB apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup soy milk
1/2 scant cup rhubarb/ apple sauce
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/8 scant cup oil

Add the wet to the dry and beat in a blender. When combined fill the muffin tins halfway up and bake 10-12 minutes in the convection oven (or a little more in a regular one.)

Makes 15 cupcakes


Vegan Rhubarb Cream Cheese Frosting
Use a mixer or blender to combine and whip the following
3 T rhubarb syrup (reserve some to make decorations on the cupcakes)
3 T vegan cream cheese
½ cup soy milk
2 T coconut milk




The frosting will not be thick enough to pipe. If you want it to be thicker add more cream cheese. It will be the faintest pink, so make decorations on the cupcakes with syrup if you want a more festive look.








Thursday, March 13, 2008

Apple Pi

So, I mentioned my blogging plans to my boss this week—3.14 , I said, and laughed. In that laugh, it became incredibly evident that yes, I am a nerd. Actually, I love being a nerd, and not only do I relish being a nerd (not a dork), but I also make choices to propagate this status. I read books with endnotes, just for fun. And, I love pi for its amazing universality; I like the golden ratio for the same reason, but pi evokes love.

All this said, I don’t love pie. I don’t hate it, but I am not someone who lives and dies by pie. However, I do love the miniature and making food that Belle will enjoy. This weekend in the snowstorm, my husband and I spent a full day making crusted food—2 pot pies and 3 different kinds of sweet pies. Of course, all these pies (excluding one) hinged on a single crust. We made basic vegan pie crust with shortening. Shortening freaks me out, and the crust was a bit too tough (the pate brisee from the tarts a few weeks earlier was much more tender but not vegan), so I will be trying this recipe next time.

Today, I thought I would post the pictures of the two apple pies that we did. As these were for Belle, I did not add sugar (though clearly you could). These are very close to being the same pie, but one is fussy and one is, well, rustic. In the end, Belle liked both, but my husband dreamt of pies that were both sweeter and bigger (the rustic was about palm-sized and the fancy ones were silver dollar-sized).

In addition, we also decided to add cardamom to the little pies. I have been thinking that cardamom would compliment the tartness of rhubarb. I had hoped to make cardamom and rhubarb meringues this weekend, but didn’t get around to it. This pie experiment made me think I should make those meringues.

But I was so pleased with the three pies from the weekend (these are just two of them) that I decided to include them in a blog roundup for Pi Day on Kitchen Parade.

Recipes:
Rustic Apple and Rhubarb Pie
Begin by creating a syrup by heating and reducing in half
½ cup of unsweetened apple juice

Roll pie crust out to 1/8 of an inch thin and then use a butter knife to cut out a circle of crust

Soak in ½ cup of apple juice (not the syrup) the following:
1 stalk thinly sliced rhubarb
1 small tart apple

Arrange the fruit in a radial pattern in two layers of the crust and then fold over the crust to form a rudimentary pie. Sprinkle with the apple syrup.

If desired top with 1 T cane sugar (I did not.)

Bake at 350 for ten minutes.

This results in one rustic pie.

Mini Apple Rhubarb Pies
Roughly dice
1 small tart apple
1 stalk of rhubarb

In a space sauce pan heat the fruit with
½ cup water
1 pod cardamom
1 sprinkle of nutmeg
1 sprinkle of cinnamon
1 T cane sugar (if desired)

Cook on medium until the fruit is softened.

Use cookie cutters to create rounds of pie crust that will fill mini-muffin tins (ideally, with a little crust peaking out over the tins)

Fill each pie, ¾ ths full with the rhubarb/ apple sauce. Seal each pie with another round of dough

Bake at 350 for ten minutes.

This results in 5 tiny pies.

Citrus Meringue Tarts

What is a tart? It is the upscale cousin of pies that flaunt their fillings instead of hiding them under crust. As I was posting sweets and baked goods, I decided to post the tarts that I made a few weeks ago. I made a simple butter pate brisee and 3 different citrus curds (meyer lemon, blood orange with black pepper, mandarin orange with a bit of lime.) I also made little meringue shells and meringue toppers for the tarts. In the end they remain tarts, but they were on the very of being tiny lemon meringue pies. (maybe a kissing cousin)

Sunday, March 9, 2008

Sweet Potato Veggie Pot Pie


My husband and I continued to bake in preparation for three posts for 3.14/ pi day. We made three different pies to be posted for the next few days and then another pot pie for dinner. The lunch pot pie was a study of pale colors, but for dinner I wanted to up the beta carotene. So, I made a veggie pot pie with sweet potato crust. The result was delicious and really all about vegetables. I liked it so much I decided to email it to the Mini Pie Revolution.

Recipe:
Sweet Potato Veggie Pot Pie
Julienne the following and divide between four oven safe bowls:
1 small red potato
¼ cup chopped swiss chard
¼ small onion
¼ small napa cabbage
¼ small sweet potato
½ small carrot
Season the vegetables with
Salt and pepper
1-2 teaspoons caraway seeds
2 T nutritional yeast

Add enough vegetable broth to just barely cover the vegetables

Parcook the vegetables in the oven at 375 for 15 minutes

Top with sweet potato crust, make a hole for ventilation, and bake until crust is golden brown
Sweet Potato Dough
Microwave
¼ of a sweet potato


When warm add 1 pat margarine (if desired) and enough flour to work into a dough.

Swiss Chard Stem, Potato, Preserved Meyer Lemon Pot Pie


I had read a nice recipe for Swiss chard stem gratin in Modern Beet and I had sort of planned to do it in the future when I get enough stems to make a main course of it. But, today, I was hungry and wanted a warm lunch. There were odd and ends in the fridge, and I knew if baked with everything with vegetable stock, the whole thing would be much tastier than any one element. The result was a yummy vegan pot pie (though the one in the photograph is vegetarian because it had an egg wash.) As it happens, there is a pot pie, or rather tiny savory pie, event at Mini Pie Revolution, though I didn't include this in it, because I felt it was too much from Modern Beet to be my own, alone creation.

Recipe
Swiss Chard and Potato Pot Pie

Combine and then split between 4 oven safe bowls the following:
2 Swiss Chard stems cut very finely
1 baking potato, julienned
½ small onion, julienned
2 t chopped preserved meyer lemon

Mix the following until a slurry is formed
2 T flour
¼ cup of soy milk

Pour ¼ of the floury milk into each bowl and then add enough vegetable stock to hit the level of the vegetables. Bake at 375 degrees for 15 minutes uncovered.

Then top with the vegan pie crust and bake at 375 until golden brown.

Sweet Bread from the March Gourmet Magazine


While yesterday was a lot about sandwiches, today was about baking. The sun was shiny over a few feet of snow. By the time that I had awoken this morning, oddly enough both earlier than usual and later thanks to Daylight Saving Time, my husband had already started making bread. He used a recipe from the newest Gourmet magazine. The bread that resulted was sweet and light with a deeply browned crust. It was truly lovely.

Spaghetti Racquet O's

So last weekend we returned from the grocery store with a bounty of vegetables, and I expected a whole slew of quick vegan recipes and for that matter time with Belle. Well, I had half of that. Every evening last week ended up busy for whatever reason, and my husband and I decided to focus on her rather than dinner.

On Sunday night, we made a roast chicken and roasted beet salad, with goat cheese for us, and with nothing else for Belle. She loved the beets, and ran around after dinner with red lips; though she was not at all interested in the chicken.

The next night my husband used the carcass of the chicken to make soup with cut up bucatini, tomato, shredded chicken and turkey Italian sausage. Yes, meat broth and meat. And this evening, our little friend decided, yum, I shall eat meat. The turkey sausage was a big hit. In fact, that is all she ate for dinner.

And, then the next evening, Ohio was trying to decide who was president. We took the baby with us so she could be part of the voting process. We were late to the voting precinct so we ate out. The children’s menu had mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, cheese pizza, and chicken fingers. So, it turned out the chicken fingers were the only thing on the menu without milk. I purchased then half expecting her to throw them my face. But to the contrary, they were again a hit.

The next night we ate rice noodle sautéed with kohlrabi, carrots, turnips, and cabbage. But, then the next night, we were late from work and on the way home grabbed some bread from the bakery. When we were there, there was a lovely pepperoni bread that my husband decided my father would enjoy. About halfway home, we heard such sincere expressions of joy from the backseat that I took a peak. Belle smiled back at me. Her face was smeared with pepperoni and tomato sauce. She had eaten ½ of the pepperoni loaf.

All my friends had said it. And, I hadn’t wanted to test it. But, here it comes out to be true. It is not meat that is a problem, just the fact that I hope for her to eat high quality, unprocessed meat. Alas, this was never a vegan food blog, but instead a way for me to remind myself what I made for Belle. I don’t see this blog turning into discussions of the best way to open a can of Chef Boyardee, but there might be more discussions on the best organic hot dogs, someday. Who knows? What I do know is Friday night, we made her spaghetti o’racquet using tomato paste, water, nutritional yeast, and turkey sausage. It was a major success, reminiscent of its processed original, and quite tasty.

Saturday, March 8, 2008

Spring Aspirations: Considering what is seasonal


I was feeling full of ambition this morning. It would be spring soon. My boss was channeling his ancestors and starting heirloom Italian tomato seeds today. And, I was looking into being a part of Community Supported Agriculture. As I said briefly in a previous post, I have been interested in farm shares quite a lot recently. More than organic, I am keen on the local.

It is funny as a lover of words; I am finding that the world of thinking about your food is full of words and phrases chosen or used for their ambiguity. What is local? How far can you go? Erie, Pennsylvania is much, much closer than Toledo or Cincinnati, but doesn’t qualify for Heinen’s Ohio Grown qualification. But, I know that I have been guilty of grabbing the Ohio Grown without thinking because I think of it as local. But, where does the Ohio Grown come from and who is growing it? I hadn’t ever thought to ask until now. I grabbed those fruits and felt better for doing it.

During the summer, my husband and I try to purchase quite a lot of vegetables from the Shaker Square market and some meat. But, I had friends in Berkeley who used to purchase a farm share every year and loved it. But so many other people have told me they did it once, but only once. We live in a culture where choice is prized and possible. If you want eggs in winter, they are always available.

We bandy about terms like seasonal, but what does that mean? In a classic sense root vegetables are winter staples, but I wonder if the beets I ate this week were harvested in the fall and then put by in a root cellar or instead grown in a greenhouse. I am asking this because I truly don’t know. All that I can say is that they probably didn’t come from South America.
Which takes me back to farm shares. . . For a culture that goes to the store with a list in hand rather than making a grocery list from what is at the store (or in the garden), accepting that for three weeks there will basically only be tomatoes is difficult. And, for me that is one sticking point too, but it might make a welcome challenge.

Snowscape Masala Soy Milk

Basically all of Ohio is in a weather warning zone. Cincinnati has had 15 inches and Cleveland never likes to be outdone by the Queen City. While this is definitely a boon day for weathercasters, it is also a great day for cooks. Yesterday afternoon, we took Belle out in the snow. She had been unwell much of January and February, so it was the first time she had been out in the snow since the holidays. Outfitting her for the climate was a somewhat difficult ordeal for her parents; once completed, the glorious red puff that she had become was full of protests. When we took her out, she was completed transfixed by the wonderland that the protests subsided. She just stood and looked out across the snowscape.

Today, the weather took a turn for the worse. It snowed all day and the wind gusts made the weather basically arctic. While we had hoped to be at our dear, hilarious friend H—‘s party, we stayed in. I made sandwiches all day and caught snippets of food TV when she napped. We ran around and I pretended I had no work to complete. My husband and I discussed some food adventures we might attempt tomorrow, weather permitting. All in all, the weather helped us relax. While someday there might be hot chocolate and marshmallows, today, she was too young for chocolate and so instead we had masala soy milk.

I heated the milk to a lukewarm temp in the microwave and added one drop of pistachio oil, one cardamom pod, a few stamens of saffron, and a pinch of sugar. If I was drinking it, I would have also added a little black pepper. I let her drink it with me from a mug. She was adorable with her milk mustache.

The Sandwich Experiments



When observed in their natural habitat, one finds that a toddler is a capricious individual prone to asserting his or her power over that which he or she can control. Food is the arena over which toddlers have the most control. No, I have not gone into writing bad child psychology papers. I was snowed in and bored. So, I decided to test a hypothesis. The difference between an educated guess and the scientific method is in the testing, and what better study subject than a baby stuck at home during a snow storm. I had this theory that Belle would eat anything if in the form of a sandwich.

So it began this morning. Last night Belle had sautéed greens, sweet potato, and pinto beans and rice. It was not a major success. So, this morning after her obligatory bowl of soy yogurt, I made her a sandwich of beans and rice and green between 1 piece of wheat bread cut in half and toasted. The sandwich was a rousing success.

But, a good study must involve repeated tests of course, and so the day continued with sandwiches for each meal and snack. At lunch, we had teriyaki vegetable sandwiches (thinly sliced carrot, kohlrabi, and cabbage). Again, successful, though Belle shared her sandwich with her dog. But, these vegetables, particularly the carrots, are often a success, so I wasn’t that surprised about this one.

After naptime, I was feeling a bit caged in and ambitious, so I made French toast with soy milk and cinnamon. I cut it in half and spread soy cream cheese and jam to make a decadent sweet sandwich. I offered it with canned mango puree. While this was a success, it really added some variables to the study. Belle does not really eat a lot of sugar. She had a little with her birthday cake; she had a few sips of pomegranate juice and orange juice; and the other day she snagged a bite of the Danish that was in by bag. But, does she ever have a sweet tooth. So, this almost doesn’t even count.

For dinner, I made decided to make pasta with sauce. This used to be such a successful meal, but it has been completely out of fashion with Belle now. So, I felt this would be a real test. I used a couple capers, diced tomatoes, diced kohlrabi, diced carrots, onions, garlic and celery. The whole bit was stuffed between a piece of garlic bread (using vegan margarine.) This to be was the greatest test of the theory. It really ultimately proved that while Belle loves bread, she will eat a little that she doesn’t plan to eat. She carefully chewed around the pasta to savor a day where she got to eat twice the amount of bread that usually gets to eat.

Friday, March 7, 2008

Omnivore's Dilemma by Michael Pollan

There was one Christmas where I regaled much of my husband’s scores of relatives with facts from Botany of Desire. (And, if you are reading this and thinking, I had no idea that Maybelle’s Mom enjoys a good lusty busty book, well, you are like my husband’s aunt, who said when receiving the book as a gift, “honey, that’s sweet, but those sorts of books aren’t for me anymore.” ) After the full colon in the title, we find that the phrase “A Plant's-Eye View of the World.” Even though it has been six years since I read the book, so many elements of the book remain fresh in my mind. The salient kernel (pun intended) of Michael Pollan’s book is that rather than being unwillingly subjugated by humanity, the vegetable kingdom has evolved through a connection with humanity. From my memory, each chapter, including a wonderful one on apples, discusses how the evolutionary path of a plant is inextricably changed by people. But, Pollan’s masterful writing style anthropomorphizes the plant, or at least imbues it with enough sentient characteristics, so as to imply/ prove that the plant moved the people to change them. (It would be very interesting to read Michael Pollan’s rendition of the story of Eden, I think.) In many ways, this aspect of the arguments reads like a mental exercise for the reader to challenge accepted belief. That is to say, Botany of Desire is soft science paired with social history, and its goals seems to be to help the reader understand that evolution is not directional or fueled by any one element of the food chain (especially man).

When Omnivore’s Dilemma came out, my husband often teased me that my “boyfriend” had finally written another book. I felt some ownership of Pollan, as I had recommended Botany to so many friends, acquaintances, strangers. I set down to read Omnivore in the dead of a Cleveland winter. I was not eating a caprese salad at the time, but I might as well have been. I am sure I had tomatoes, cucumber, and lettuce in my fridge. And, I know that I was wrestling with the issues of what to eat and why to eat what I eat. (Heck, I deal with it all the time these days.) The book basically began with the eating times of most Americans now, commercial food, and ended with the past of most Americans, foraging and hunting. In the middle, he dealt with the culture of the organic.

In this book, Pollan’s goal seems much like in Botany, to destabilize conventional wisdom and open up discussion about that which is considered a given. His tools are weaving facts and experience through erudite yet conversational writing. However, I felt that Omnivore has an elemental undercurrent of preachiness—down with corn, and then die soy beans too. I can’t be convinced this was actually the author’s intention. It is my guess that some of this was due to poor editing; Pollan often repeated himself, in a slightly louder manner each time. In Botany, the repeated facts, the truths about the plants were woven together to create a crescendo that left the reader to understand his message. In Omnivore, this crescendo was not as graceful.

Nonetheless, the message was very interesting. To me his discussion of the culture of corn and commercial farming was interesting, though not particularly surprising or new. Ethanol and the corn lobby are some of my least favorite things in the world, and I always felt dirty when I saw the ADM ads on PBS. But, the organic discussion was quite interesting—in part because of the information but in part because it made me wonder about the author’s goal in the chapter. This section could be considered two sections, conventional organic and small-scale organic. In each, he discusses the multifold, and often conflicting, issues in all of those supposedly good choices you are making for your family. In my book club discussion of the book, we all discussed how this book can be in some ways disabling. Pollan uses himself as a character in the book describing himself as a man who is on a quest to understand food. And, just as the reader feels paralyzed by his eating choices, Pollan writes of how he is disabled by what he has come to understand as the untenable choices in our marketplace. Everything you will eat will necessarily affect something in the world or yourself negatively.

In some ways, the most interesting, and least satisfying part of the book was the third part—the hunting and foraging. I had a feeling that Pollan had gotten so tired writing about corn or perhaps so cerebral about killing an animal for food, that he wasn’t able to spend enough energy on this section. For a man who wrote the in Botany most interesting thing I had read about Johnny Appleseed in my life, I was disappointed in the language of this section.

In total, my love for Botany remains unabated. And, Pollan is a wonderful writer with the ability to simplify that which needs to be simplified while at the same time embellishing that which is either incredibly powerful or boring to the point where both seem equally worth reading. That said, if you wish to eat again read Omnivore’s Dilemma only if you wish to pair it In Defense of Food (his follow-up) or What to Eat by Marion Nestle.

Sunday, March 2, 2008

Heinen’s, Local, Organic and Omnivore’s Dilemma

I spoke to an acquaintance D— today about her experience with CityFresh. She and her husband are both chefs. She is the sort of person who could sell you on almost anything because she is so energetic. Last year when she told me about CityFresh, I didn’t really listen because I was so focused on nursing. But, now that I am focused on feeding Belle the best food, I started thinking more about farm shares and vegetables.

This month, my book club discussed Omnivore’s Dilemma. The discussion devolved into personal discussion because my book club friends only see each other so rarely, but we did come to conclusion that there is no “right” answer (and that if we never have to read about corn, it will be too soon.) The book did not come to many conclusions that work for a Clevelander in, though my guess is that Pollan’s next book takes up that charge. I am still focusing on reading Marion Nestle’s What to Eat, though I haven’t been able to find time to get to the library to check it out.

But, it did make me decide that it is time to do farm shares. My husband and I have talked about it for five years, but when it was the two of us, we felt like it wasn’t worth the money. But, now we are trying to weigh the different farms, and the pros and cons. For us, we would either want delivery (is it worth the extra fee) or pick up at Shaker Market. Ideally, we would need a full share and an option to buy meat and eggs.

But, what does one do in Cleveland in winter? I might can and freeze this summer, or I might not. But, it is my guess that next winter I will continue to shop at Heinen’s. I have been reading labels and thinking about how far my food flew or drove to get here. And, we don’t buy anything that has many ingredients.

As this month, we are trying to eat out much less, especially now that I have this global document of what we eat, we are going to make the most of our groceries. Inevitably, we end up composting some portion of the groceries that we buy. And, then we end up with at least one week of icebox experiments (scrounging in the fridge for dinner fixings.) So, we have made plans and have purchased just what we need. Stay tuned to see what we make of them.

crop bistro and bar

It was downtown restaurant week last week. During the week, when I talked about this with friends and coworkers, I felt a little like one of only a handful of people who seemed to know this. My husband and I had been slightly alarmed by the money that we had spent this month on eating out (we ARE hoping to send Belle to college someday), so we had thought this was not something we would take advantage of.

That said, I don’t plan ahead and even though we had plans for over a week to try Café Toscano (owned by Giovanni's) in Aurora with our friends R— and J—, I didn’t make a reservation. It turns out everyone else did.

I figured this was a sign that we should make the long drive downtown to be part of the festivities. We decided to go to chef Steve Schimoler's Crop Bistro and Bar, on West 6th. The interior, apparently very similar to when Johnny’s Bistro had it, was spectacular. With its wood paneling and cornucopia tile accents, my husband said it reminded him of old Chicago. The space was highlighted with “earthy” accents, including dried bits of nature displayed in the chandeliers and close-up poster-size portraits of vegetables. (Interestingly, they are very reminiscent of those at Fire.)

The chef is apparently a mover and shaker in the local food culture, and has created a method of employing Sysco to move local food from the farm to the chefs. His menu reflected his interest in the local and the seasonal. The menu was comfort food made fine with a similar sense of humor to Sawyer’s beer tasting menu. (The pasta special is called a “Big Pile of Crop Pasta.” Thank god they have an editor for the menu, huh.)

My husband had the $20 three course meal and I decided not to order a drink and instead get the $40 four course meal. For a starter, I had a seared scallop on a polenta cake. My husband had deviled eggs. Our friends had the beets and Lake Erie goat (oh, how I love you Lake Erie Creamery) and the spinach salad. My scallops were nice, but my husband’s deviled eggs were excellent. Our entrees were mac and cheese with brisket, lamb with white bean cassoulet, four pigs (sausage, pork chop, pulled pork and bacon—though we couldn’t find the bacon). My white beans were very tasty, though calling them a cassoulet made me anticipate some amount of pork in their preparation. My husband’s mac and cheese with brisket was not as enjoyable. Mac and cheese is so commonplace, both in its low form and its high form. So, when the pasta was not very cheesy or special, we were disappointed. It was not that this dish was bad at all, but it was that it was competing in our mind with so much.

We ended with desert. I had vascillated between the carrot cake and the southern comfort assemblage. But, the panna cotta and grapefruit swayed me to the latter. My husband had the orange bread pudding, which he enjoyed. R-- and J-- shared some sort of grown-up snicker cake concoction; its chocolate cake was nice and its peanut ice cream was perplexingly peanuty (but looked like vanilla ice cream.)

In total, the evening was incredibly fun. The restaurant was packed, and it felt like we were part of an urban culture. The food was enjoyable enough that I will go back, especially to see what the chef will do with summer’s plenty, but I know that I will not order the mac and cheese.

Euclid Tavern

Memory has an uneasy relationship with reality sometimes. For me, this is often tied to spaces. There are places which I knew so well that they remain very real in my mind. This is not to say I visit them in my mind, but rather my memory of the space is so strong, I sometimes forget that they no longer exist. To me, this is particularly true of spaces that are tied with childhood and adolescence. I know that my childhood home is no longer as I remember it—but I remember the interior so well, I feel as if I could walk right in and sit on the brown plaid sofa. (It was the early 80s.)

The old Euclid Tavern is another one of those spaces. The beer coated floors, the dark interiors, the indistinct interior colors, the plastic cups, the scores of Case students…. So, when I heard it was reopening, I hoped to never patronize the establishment. Not that I heard bad things, but because I was loathe to displace my memories of the Euke.

Last week, another friend named C— and I had a lunch date. We hadn’t spoken in ages and we both had some fairly serious news to discuss. As such, I was much more focused on our conversations than lunch, so I had no restaurant plans. She was craving sandwiches as the weather was cold. On our way out of work, I asked a coworker for a recommendation. The Tavern was the first thing that came to his mind.

So it happened that I was seated at the Euke eating a sandwich in the middle of the afternoon last week. When we walked in, I decided it would be best to set the old place aside. The floors were clean and polished—in fact the whole restaurant was. It was not totally different—Thank God. It was just cleaned up. Later than evening, my husband asked if they still had the wood floors, and I told him that I had always thought the floors were made of beer.

We each ordered a sandwich—Crab burger with sweet potato fries and meatloaf with French fries. I didn’t taste the crab burger, but the sweet potato fries were nice. We also had the Moroccan Beef with Couscous. While not really a Moroccan tagine, it was wonderfully beefy with raisins to add sweetness. University Circle really needed a place like the new Euclid Tavern—good burgers and sandwiches. But, what is nicest to me is that the space kept the best of the old place. I think when I hear someone say Euclid Tavern I will still think about cheap beer and being underage, but then I will also think it is probably the best place for a hot sandwich in University Circle.

Raquette-shaped pasta

The panoply of pasta shapes promises countless dishes born from a single source. Many of these shapes though seem to be more about humor than the appropriate sauce. De Cecco Racchete (racquet shaped pasta) is one of these humorous shapes. Belle had a surprise guest for dinner, her friend J—, the other night and as he doesn’t eat citrus or dairy but does eat meat, I made a quick “green” sauce with sautéed onions, garlic, frozen peas, frozen asparagus, and steamed kohlrabi. The most surprising thing was that Belle ate turkey meatballs because J-- was eating them.


We used the last of the pasta tonight to make homemade spaghetti o’s. I had a little homemade pasta sauce that I watered down. I cooked Heinen’s chicken sausage with the tomato sauce and then served the racquette with nutritional yeast, tomato sauce and a few disks of chicken sausage. We served it with a side of roasted beets. There were some surprises with this dinner—the sausage and the beets were big hits.

Indian Food Dinner at Fire Food and Drink

There is a dearth of good Indian restaurants in Cleveland. I don’t even mean authentic, because that would imply a uniform Indian cuisine. I just mean a restaurant that prepares the ubiquitous Mughlai/ Indo-British regulars well. Some do it okay sometimes; some did it well once upon a time; some have always done it badly. If the attendance for the Fire Indian Food event on Feb 28 was any indication, there is a clearly interest in Indian food in Cleveland. The event was so popular that they closed the restaurant and filled it with people anxious for Indian food. And, I would be surprised if any guests left hungry.

Chef Katz explained that this dinner was conceived through the friendship of his child and that of guest chef Radhika Rajwade. The resulting menu served as a quick and somewhat stereotypical tour of India. That is not to say that the food was bad—quite to the contrary. The chicken curry and tandoori chicken was better than that of any Indian restaurant in Cleveland. The chefs in the kitchen, whose tandoor likely gave birth to the restaurant’s name, clearly understood how to capitalize on the hot spots of its oven to create perfect naan. In addition, the meal featured two goat—not lamb—dishes. I have eaten goat many times, and love it. The recipes that were chosen, “kheema masala: spicy minced goat” and “bhuna gosht: braised goat ”, highlighted the richness of the meat while down playing the gaminess that can be challenging to those whose palette is more comfortable with lamb.

Chef Katz also highlighted his local source for the meat--Goatfeathers Point Farm. Though I have never really spoken to him, Katz has always struck me as a really decent fellow—committed to Shaker Square, to Cleveland, and to ethical food. He was very careful to thank Rajwade and her family for their clear commitment to the evening. He started a round of applause for the farmers (who were also attendees of the dinner). On my way out, I noticed that Katz has been awarded a sustainable seafood award. He was even very affable when I shot his picture as the desserts were being prepared.

In general most of the meal was enjoyable, excluding the Goan fish which didn’t strike me as particularly Goan. There are two Indian cuisines which do fish famously well—the coastal cultures of Bengal and Goa (not to mention many others like the Parsis and the Keralans who have less famous but just as tasty dishes.) Goa, as a tourist hotspot, is the most famous outside India, and its cuisine is influenced by the food of Portugal (their long-time colonial power) and employs vinegar, onions and, outside of Goa proper, coconut in the preparation of fish. (In Bengal, mustard oil is a requisite compliment to fish.) This bit of didactic aside, my point is Rajwade’s choice of “Goan fish” pointed to her interest in giving us the most popular dishes as a means helping the newbie taste a variety of India. It seemed to be a way that Rajwade could bring everyone to the various types on Indian meals that they could have. As such each entree was paired with a compliment of starch or vegetable. The overall effect was, well, a little overwhelming. And, while the food was served family style (a wonderfully Indian touch), it was as if some Indian Grandmother had planned the portions with an eye to fatten her guests up. It also meant that our table wasted quite a lot of food and the next morning, I half-wished that I had brought Tupperware or something. Sadly the excess of food meant that I didn't enjoy the exceptional pistachio ice cream as much as I should have.

In total, the food was tasty, even though I learned that more was just more. It was a great way for someone to learn about Indian food—though I would not say it was a true tasting menu (in which a chef creates a carefully portion guided tour of his/her ideas.) But, this tour of India was well planned in it variety of foods and drinks (including mango lassi, rose sherbat, and Indian beer.)

Apparently, Katz will be pairing with one of his staff members to do a similar evening about Thailand. I would also love for him to do one about North Africa. If I attend again, I shan’t eat for days prior to the festivities. Though it also made me think that Katz/ Rajwade might want to dip into doing a high-end/ middle-end Indian restaurant.

Jacket potatoes with Kale


I am an omnivore and I love nutritional yeast. I love it on popcorn, on pasta, on baked potatoes. It is yummy, yummy. It means I have to run to the store that was Wild Oats, but frankly, it’s worth it.


I had started using it as a B vitamin supplement for the meat-free Belle. But, I have gotten to the point where I actually crave it. I have never enjoyed Marmite. It is a beloved childhood memory for one of my friends, but my first experience of it in high school, spread thickly on toasted white bread, didn’t float my boat. I had the distinct feeling that I was eating someone’s science experiment—it was all rich tones and no subtlety. (Though, while writing this, after a couple decades, i think perhaps it does deserve a second taste.)

Nonetheless, nutritional yeast is nothing like my memories of Marmite. First of all, it comes in flakes, rather than as a thick paste from a jar. But, to me, there are nutty undertones to nutritional yeast—it is a little like parmesan, but different. I suspect even if Belle goes back to milk, nutritional yeast will still be on the menu—its just good.

The other night, we decided to have baked sweet potatoes with sautéed kale and onions and nutritional yeast. The whole menu in fact was a means by which we could serve the yeast. Yes, its that good.

Icebox Experiment: Fake Chicken is Still Chicken

I had always assumed that Belle was adverse to meat because of its texture. Our non scientific study came this week. I had purchased Yves Lemon Chicken Skewers on a whim at Whole Foods. I had been reading a book by Naguib Mafouz and as I had a vague interest in doing something to Middle Eastern, they called out to me.

This week was a difficult cooking week. While my husband and I have been working more, we have not lost sight of creating healthful family meals. We are just doing them more quickly. So the other evening, we pulled out a box of grape tomatos, mushrooms, the Yves, and macaroni. My husband fire-roasted the tomatoes in a skillet and then sautéed the mushrooms in another skillet.

Then we broke out the “meat.” Each packet of 2 skewers came in at just under $4, so we decided to stretch it and only use one for our pasta. We added the “meat” to the mushrooms and continued to sautee. Carmelization is always a good thing, if you ask my husband.

The whole thing came together in a pasta dish. The tomato sauce was rich and tasty and Belle loved it. But, the “chicken” was surprisingly chickeny in flavor and texture…and not a single bite was swallowed by Belle.

And in many ways it was lucky that she didn't like the "meat", because I had had a clear lapse in the grocery store--the "chicken" was made with eggs. I know that sounds like I am about to go into the birds and the bees, but what I mean is that eggs were used in the production of the "chicken." Don't they always, you ask? Isn't it a bit comical. One buys fake chicken only to find that it is made with eggs. I reminds me why for me (an omnivore) fake meat doesn't really make sense. I don't need a simalcrum when I am perfectly happy to consume the original.